My first visit to Estonia

I’m always encouraging the brilliant travel professionals I work with to write about their experiences in a personal and engaging way… so it’s time I tried to practise what I preach.

From the moment I first met Nordic Travel Solutions and the Visit Estonia team at ATAS in autumn 2023, I had a feeling Estonia was going to be something special.

My first visit confirmed it.

My partner Jo and I were lucky enough to have an itinerary arranged by the brilliant Eliina and the team. What followed was an action-packed, memorable few days featuring bear watching, biking, bog walking, hiking, kayaking, spas, stunning hotels and a vibrant capital city that left us wondering why we hadn’t been sooner.

Flying out with Wizz Air from Luton on Easter Monday and returning in the early hours of the following Saturday with Ryanair to Stansted, Estonia is incredibly easy to get to.

The Bolt app (think Uber) made transfers simple.

Our first night was at the Kalev Spa Hotel in Tallinn - great room, no time for the facilities, but an outstanding buffet breakfast that set the tone for Estonia’s fantastic food.

Our hire car, pre-arranged through OÜ Sir Autorent (cannot recommend highly enough - super-efficient, great communication and easy airport return), was delivered to our hotel. A quick reacquaintance with right-hand gear shifts and we were off, to the soundtrack of our own podcasts and music, navigating a scenic, empty and well-signposted drive east for something very special

Brown Bear Watching

With snacks in hand (pro tip: stop at a supermarket!), we headed to Alutaguse for our overnight bear watching with Natourest.

As the season had only just started, we were the only guests.

Our guides, Kärt and Bert, led us 2km into the woods where we immediately spotted paw prints. Within 30 minutes of settling into our private hide, Jo whispered, “Quick, look!”

There it was - a brown bear about 30 feet away, even standing up for us. Over the next four hours, we had seven more sightings, including a huge male and three playful siblings.

The hide had a brilliant mic to amplify the sounds of nature and we had our bird app at the ready too. After a magical evening, we tucked up in our sleeping bags. My late-night checks in the deteriorating weather revealed little more than a majestic crane by the lake.

This experience was a total bucket list moment. If you love wildlife and nature, do it.

Forest Trails & Coastal Peace

The next morning, we drove to Rakvere for breakfast (my tip: Rohuaia Café - delicious omelettes and coffee) before heading to Oandu Old-Growth Forest Nature Trail.

4.7km of peaceful, stunning old forest with only birds, trees, and our own footsteps for company.

Pure bliss until a group of excitable schoolchildren popped up near the end!

We then drove to Purekkari neem, the northernmost point of Estonia, and enjoyed the beautiful coastal tranquillity before heading to our next base.

Vihula Manor

At Vihula Manor, we met with Angela, Corporate Sales Manager, for an introduction to their stunning estate and the Unique Hotels portfolio.

Vihula oozes charm: lakes, parkland, watermill, vodka museum, vintage car museum, and even a mini golf course.

Our room was divine, the restaurant food superb, and it was a treat to enjoy luxury after a night in a forest hide!

Bog Walking & Sled Dogs at Kõrvemaa

We met our guide Marilin from Eesti Loodusturismi Ühing at Kõrvemaa, where she introduced us to Estonia’s nature culture and the awesome Small Lapland.

We hiked with two adorable sled dogs - malamutes - through bog and forest, learning about foraging, sauna culture and local traditions.

The landscape was peaceful and stunning. Marilin’s passion and knowledge were infectious. Another unexpected Estonia gem.

Lunch at Anija Mõis, a quaint place full of character offered classic Estonian flavours in a grand setting with gorgeous gardens.

We then stopped at the Jägala Waterfall en route back to Tallinn.

Kayaking

One of the real highlights was an evening kayak tour on the Pirita River with Indie Tours.

We met up with Eliina from Nordic Travel Solutions and her husband Kristo and hilariously got kitted up (even more embarrassing was getting everything off afterwards).

Guides Kessu and Liisi were excellent, and we glided along calm waters under a pink-hued sunset. I had no idea the 1980 Moscow Olympic rowing events were held here - one of many “wow” moments.

Tallinn

We parked up for our last full day (top tip: €20 for 24hrs near the excellent Kalev Spa Hotel, where we stayed once again).

Tallinn’s old town is a delight: cobbled streets, medieval architecture, history, character, coffee in the main square and cinnamon rolls from a family bakery (heaven) opposite the Depeche Mode bar. We just couldn’t get enough!

The Tallinn City Bike Tour with Roland (City Bikes) was another standout. Easy pace, informative and personal (just us and a Danish couple). Highlights included Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Song Festival Grounds, the WWII memorial, and great views along the seaside promenade. An absorbing mixture of beauty, joy and poignant landmarks – we totally loved it.

We finished the day exploring Balti Jaama Turg market - vintage stalls, food courts, and even a gym before a final dinner at Ulo. Amazing food, superb service, and incredible value.

After four packed days, we digitally returned the car and headed to the airport for our late flight home.

This was a brilliant trip: vibrant, young, modern, with a mix of history, nature and warm people. It feels quietly Scandinavian, and I know UK travellers will increasingly wake up to Estonia’s charms.

As for me - I’ve already been back, this time with a fantastic group of travel professionals for our latest Minty Highway educational trip. But that’s a story for another blog...

Estonia - consider the flame well and truly lit.